The Wave is my Satori
Satori is the Japanese Buddhist term meaning "awakening" (sort of like Eureka! in English). It's THE moment you realize the truth about everything, the moment you attain enlightenment. For Zen monks this is what all the spiritual exercise is all about. For me, Satori is the feeling I get when I'm surfing. A certain bliss comes over me, a feeling of stillness, I am connected to something much bigger than myself. Afterwards, I am different, always.